Happy Pumpkin Table Runner

Happy Pumpkin Table Runner

click here for a printable version of instructions
If you choose you may purchase the instructions and pattern directly from me-
 to do this click on the "Add to Cart" button on the right. 

Items that you will need:

·       Black and Orange thread

·       3 colors of black stylized fabric off the bolt- 7 inches each (At least 3- in mine you see here I used 6 different ones)

·       3 Colors of Orange stylized fabric off the bolt 7 inches each (At least 3- in mine you see here I used 6 different ones)

·       1 fat quarter of Green for leaf stem and vine 

(again I used two different styles of green)

·       Iron on interfacing-  I like to use HEAVY DUTY PELLON Wonder Under(R)

·       1 fat quarter of black for the face

·       1 1/2 yards of coordinating fabric for the back (we will also use it for the binding as well)

·       45 x 45 inches of batting* **

*your choice, either 100% cotton, 80/20, or 1/4 polyester bonded batting will be fine, and If you get a pre-cut/pre-bagged batting from your nearest "wally-world" you could use a crib size batt- it is a 45 x 60
**just remember that you will want a very thin batting so that when you place it on your table with a candy dish on top of it- your dish will not tip over and break)

1. Pre wash all fabric    (when you pre wash your fabric you may want to rinse it in cold with a 1/4 cup-1 cup of vinagar- this is a trick I use to help set your brighter colors and over time and washings you will not loose so much of the color to fading problems.)
2. Iron fabric    (iron fabric- but be careful not to pull and tug on fabric press it lightly so as not to stretch it out. I even like to use a little starch like "sizing")
3. Cut all you pieces 

·            1 green Stem  (before I cut it out- I iron on the fusible interfacing onto the back of the square piece of green fabric- trace the pattern onto the back of my block [the paper side-remembering to reverse the pattern] and then cut out the pattern)

·            1 leaf-optional (iron on the fusible interfacing prior to cutting it out)

·            2 vines (iron on Fusible interfacing prior to cutting it out)

·            Face on the black Fat quarter/ or 8.5 x 11 in piece of black fabric (again iron on the fusible interfacing first- then trace and cut)

·            12 orange 5 1/2 X 5 1/2 inch block squares

·            4 extra 5 1/2 X 5 1/2 inch block orange squares (to be used for the triangle blocks)

·            20 black 5 1/2 X 5 1/2 inch blocks Square

·            4 extra 5 1/2 X 5 1/2 inch blocks black squares (to be used for the triangle blocks)

Stem for pattern click here

Vine (optional) for pattern click here

Leaf (optional) for pattern click here

Eyes, nose, and Mouth for pattern click here

.

4. Sew your triangle blocks first

·            Sew with a 1/4 inch straight stitch seam (make sure that your stitch length is set at a 2.5 rather than the traditional 3.  I find that the seams are less likely to pop and fray even after multiple washings.)

·            Take your 8 orange blocks and your eight black blocks

·            place right sides together.

·            on the first  (making sure your pattern is correct in direction) mark a diagonal line from bottom left to top right  Sew directly on the marked line.

·            then the next one - mark from top left to bottom right.  Sew, following the marked line.

·            the third you will mark top left to bottom right. Sew again, right on the line

·            the forth one mark top right to bottom left. Sew on this marked line.

5.     Now trim your blocks and Press each one.

 (NOTE: do not pull or stretch fabric)

6.       Now, lay out your blocks on to your quilting wall or your bed or table -look at the fabrics, noticing how they interact with each other-  When your ready to sew- keep them all out on display. This will help keep your pieces in the right order.  Line them up like in the following outline:
7.       Press seams on the 1st strip of blocks to the right the next strip to the left and then right and so on alternating pressed seams this tip will help make your corners line up much better not to mention the ease it makes on quilting.

8.       Now place your face on and iron into place.

Using a blanket stitch or satin stitch or a tight zig zag, sew edge of face.   Or you could get creative and use a straight stitch sewing 1/4 inch away from edge and then fray your edge- like on the vines.

9.       Now you are ready to quilt your project.

I like to spray a light basting spray on my batting.  place pieced top on sprayed batting-right side facing out- seams against the batting,  straighten  and press with a low iron.

10.     Trim batting to top of quilt.

11.     Flip over and lightly baste spray batting again, place back fabric on, straighten, smooth, and press again with a low iron.

12.     Using straight pins or safety pins,  pin your quilt together in a few places.

Now for quilting...

13.     Drop your feed dogs and change your presser foot to your quilting hooped foot

Move you quilt in a meandering design, i even quilted in veins on the leaf and stem, and used a serpentine  stitch around the pumpkin. 
I like to start in  the center and work my way out, unless of course I use my quilting machine- which I use nearly every time now.  Then I do just the opposite- I quilt my borders first and work my way in.

14.     Bind -
I like to use a continuous bias binding on my projects usually, but when I have straight edges I strip my fabric on the straight - I tuck in a mitered corner. 
(Check back for instructions on this type of binding- coming soon)

Good Luck and Happy Haunting with this "Sew Fun" project.